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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.